Happy Birthday MaMa | Moplah Chicken Biryani

Moplah Chicken Biryani by Roy “Do not shed a tear or else your sister will cry” Dad said.

I entered from the backyard. Pushing away the passive truth screaming in my head. The din, the noise, the people, imploring eyes glaring at me. It was like walking a dark tunnel knowing there is still darkness on the other side.

I had started living this truth one year back. It’s only that the jolt had struck me today.

In the front-yard, she lay so still, her eyes so calm and serene in deep slumber, the glow on her face was ephemeral, she wore red vermillion, the shining glass bangles and for the first time in that one year she wore a red Saree. I stopped and tried to soak in all her beauty for the lifetime. I knelt, hugged her until eternity. Tried so hard to stop the swelling emotions. When I opened my eyes she was gone.

Death is a plausible truth for the mortals but it transcends to a greater reality after it has passed.

This Sunday on world environment day. It was her birthday. Every year this day is just another day in our lives. I prefer saying a silent prayer. Getting some flowers. I cook well and feed my family. As that’s what my mother would want me to do. You do not forget your family in your most difficult and the most pleasurable moments.

My mum sang old movie songs as lullabies to us. The irony lies in the themes of the song (talking about wanderlust, heartbreak or romance). But when sung into my ears when I was half asleep in the dimly lit room. It surpassed any rhyming lullaby.

I could share a few of them here. For my english speaking readers I am paraphrasing the lyrics. The meaning is very significant in my life. Our loss has become our strength. We learn to tread life and enjoy its alternating shades.

Moplah Chicken Biryani by Roy

This is life

These are the colors of this life 
This is the way of life

A bit of sadness, A bit of happiness

A bit of shade, A bit of sun
The good and bad moments are here only

Don’t think that in this we will win or lose 
Don’t think in this life you are winning or losing

Just accept what life has offered you 
The way of life is for you to accept

Do leave this stubbornness, don’t break this moment 

MoplahChickenBiryaniPlatter

I chose a traditional recipe today for cooking a Sunday feast. Its called the Moplah chicken biryani. Though preferably made with mutton I chose to go with poultry this time. Moplahs hail from northern Kerela and have a very rich culinary heritage. Back in the 7th century when Arab traders landed in Malabar to strengthen their trade hold in the spice region of Malabar.They married into the families there. Most families embraced the Arab culture and gave rise to an amalgamated cuisine of Kerela-Arab influence. So unique and flavourful and its roots strengthened with its tradition. I was smitten by their matriarchal system where the groom moves into the bride’s home post marriage. What bliss 🙂 But he a real pampered groom so it doesn’t undermines anyone’s self-respect.

I followed Abida Rasheed who is hailed as the Genie of Moplah cuisine. She has for a very long time held the baton for popularising the Moplah cuisine worldwide. I share some of her unique tips for cooking the perfect Moplah Biryani. You should also read this article by her on Moplah cuisine.

Tips from Abida Rasheed for the Moplah Biryani :

  • The biryani is extremely light and flavourful. You could actually go back to work after a Moplah Biryani meal.
  • Onions should be fried according to the colour of the meat.
  • Usage of rock salt instead of the table salt for flavour.
  • When you add the salt to the meat, it should be added after the meat has changed colour just raw.
  • Always use a homemade garam masala.
  • The usage of firewood enhances the flavour in seven folds. This tip is for all those who are lucky to cook on a hearth.
  • Preferred cooking vessel is uruli (brass cooking pot) and cheena chetty (frying pan).

The photography was inline with my theme. The alternating shades of life just like sun streaming through a mesh and creating a maze of light and shadows.The food quality is accentuated with the highlights and is extremely dramatic to observe. Just as a humble family meal carries so many emotions. I hope I could do justice to the photography with my attempt.

Moplah Chicken Biryani
Recipe Type: Main course
Cuisine: Indian
Author: Roy
Prep time:
Cook time:
Total time:
Serves: 4-5
Moplah Chicken Biryani : This aromatic and highly flavourful biryani from northern Kerela is a history lesson itself. It is extremely light on your tummy and so easy to prepare.Learn about the Moplah cuisine.
Ingredients
  • For the chicken
  • 2 large onions,finely sliced
  • 3 large onions, finely sliced for frying
  • 1 kg chicken or mutton
  • 1 large tomato, chopped
  • 2 cups of thick yoghurt
  • 1 tbsp ginger paste
  • 1 tbsp garlic paste
  • 7-8 Green chillies, crushed
  • Juice of 1 lemon
  • Sprig of Coriander leaves
  • Homemade garam masala
  • Saffron strands dissolved in 2 tbsp warm milk
  • 1 tbsp rose water
  • Handful of Dry fruits for frying, Cashews and sultanas
  • Oil for frying
  • Rock salt to taste
  • For the Rice
  • 500 gm Long grained Basmati Rice
  • 1 tbsp salt
  • 1 tbsp oil
Instructions
For the rice
  1. Wash the rice and soak it in water for 30 minutes.
  2. Boil a pot of water with salt and oil. Then put the rice into the water and cook it until its par-boiled. I takes me approximately 8-10 minutes with my quality rice. Then we drain the excess water and spread the rice on a platter.
For the chicken
  1. Here is a quick tip for getting those crispy fired onions. I would always cut the onions and smear a little salt on the cut onions. Then pop it in the fridge. This would make the onions weep of its moisture. Then pop it into piping hot oil and then reduce the heat and let it get slightly charred on both sides. Now for the tricky bit. When frying you should take it out one shade lighter because the process of cooking and crisping continues once it is out of the oil too. So if you completely carbonise your onions in the oil. It gets really burnt once out of the oil. I friend it a shade deep red in colour because my chicken is paler in shade.
  2. Also fry your dry fruits in the same oil.
  3. Now take 3 tbsp of oil from the pan which was used for frying the onions. As they retain the flavour of the fried onions.Then fry the fresh onions in the oil in a deep bottomed pan. This should be done for five minutes.
  4. Add your washed chicken into the pan. Fry it for another five minutes until it changes color to pale white. Then add your rock salt as per your taste.
  5. Followed by crushed green chillies. Adjust the heat as per your taste. Then add the ginger garlic paste.
  6. This should be cooked uncovered for five until the raw smell of the ginger and garlic has sublimed.
  7. Then add your tomatoes and let it get cooked into a pulp.
  8. We balance the tang with the yoghurt. We add a portion of the fried onions into the mixture. This is responsible for colouring the gravy.
  9. Now cook it covered for 10 minutes over medium heat.The gravy should have been reduced to half.
  10. Then uncover and add coriander leaves, lemon juice, homemade garam masala.Mix it into the chicken.
  11. Then top the vessel with rice cooked above. Garnish with saffron milk, rose water, fried onions and dry fruits.
  12. Cover it and cook it on dum for 10 minutes over low heat. This process helps the flavour to develop along with the spices and garnishes. The rice is extremely flavourful.
  13. This could be served with raita and salad or eaten as is. The flavours are guaranteed.

Moplah Chicken Biryani By Roy

 

12 Comments

  1. My heart skipped a beat as I read through your post. May God bless her with what she is due… and may He give you strength to go on with life with her lovely memories… xoxo As soon as I saw Moplah chicken biriyani, I hopped over to my blog since I had also tried this biriyani from a magazine cut-out and yes, the recipe is so similar. 🙂 The pictures are so sobre… But the biriyani truly stands out…

    • Hello Rafeeda,

      Time is the best healer and when you endorse a role of a mother. Things totally change.

  2. What a beautiful post. It was almost like seeing the entire episode virtually. Lots of love to both you sisters. Your mom s blessings are showered upon you from wherever she is. A tight hug and lots of love.
    And yes the biryani…. I am definitely trying it out.

    • Hello Chitra,

      Yes,I couldn’t write more as it was too emotionally tiring. But Richie’s braver and so confident. So proud of her.

  3. Hugs to you my friend .I was in tears while reading .May god give you the strength to over come the loss of your mother .Now coming to biryani ,let me tell you my mom till date cooks the biryani in this style using tomatoes …she says excess garam masala kills the essence of biryani .your tips reminded me of my mother .clicks have done justice to your write up and the recipe .

    • Hello Nusrath,

      Its been many years now. But sometimes you go weak. Mothers are the most precious gift.

  4. I don’t know what to say girl. You are so brave (((hugs))) Stay happy sweetie and you make your Mom proud everyday! xx

    My husband loves biryani. He can eat it everyday if given a choice. Going to surprise him someday with this dish 🙂

    • Hello Kankana,

      Time teaches a lot of things and just leaves a few things to ponder.I am my mom. Yes thats what I wanted to hear.

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